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Every time The Gentleman visits Cubicle Chic he is more and more impressed by how this blog has grown and evolved. Meredith and Lindsay have done a fantastic job expanding the site over the past year and it has been a privilege to contribute to its development. When they first asked me to contribute men’s style advice to this blog, I never imagined that it would grow to be a site followed by thousands from across the country and begin to receive a great deal of acclaim in the fashion blogging community. Cubicle Chic is a testament to Meredith and Lindsay’s vision and hard work.
The blog stands at a bit of a crossroads right now. Its readership is taking off, and as more and more people are tuning in to read it, it is vital that it defines itself in the crowded marketplace of fashion blogs. Cubicle Chic has always been primarily devoted to corporate work wear for the young professional woman. I’ve been glad to contribute men’s style advice both for our male readers and for women looking to shop for them. However, as Cubicle Chic moves forward, it needs to do focus on what it does best. That is why, in talking with Meredith and Lindsay, I’ve decided to step back from Cubicle Chic and allow them to focus on women’s work wear.
I’m going to miss writing The Gentleman, however, I’m pleased with what I’ve been able to accomplish over the past year. From tie knots, to matching shoes to trousers, I’ve covered a very broad stretch of men’s style topics, all of which will remain in the Cubicle Chic archives. I’m not sure where I’ll go from here. I’ve thought about spinning off my own style blog, which could very well happen. Whatever I do, I’ll let Cubicle Chic readers know so that they can follow The Gentleman’s continuing sartorial journey.
Thank you so much for reading my columns every Tuesday and I look forward to seeing where Meredith and Lindsay take Cubicle Chic.
-The Gentleman, Steve Sanders
Over the last few weeks, The Gentleman has been discussing denim, specifically the difference between a pair of jeans meant for day-to-day wear and a pair of jeans for dressing up in the evening.
There has been a lot of talk among people interested in style about “Raw Denim Selvage.” This rather confusing term has left men wondering exactly what these clothing enthusiasts are talking about. The Gentleman is here to shed some light on what exactly raw denim selvage is and why it can be a great choice for a dressier pair of jeans.
Selvage refers to a type of denim weave with a straight edge that resists fraying. It is produced on an older type of machine called a shuttle loom. Only the edges of the denim bolt are used in the production of the jeans, rather than the whole bolt, as is typical. This creates a very durable pair of jeans, however the production of selvage denim is more time consuming and, therefore, more expensive. Selvage denim’s durability has led to this weave being highly prized by clothing enthusiasts, some going so far as to say that it is the only kind of acceptable denim. The Gentleman would not go so far, but he does recommend that every gentleman have one good pair of selvage in his closet.
When shopping for jeans, most selvage is clearly labeled. However, if there is any question, examining the cuff will reveal the tell-tale seam of selvage where the loom has created the “self-sealed” non-fraying edge. Consequently, some men cuff their selvage jeans to show off the quality of their denim. It’s a little ostentatious, but can look cool.
When you hear the term selvage, you almost always hear it paired with “raw denim.” Raw denim is pure denim fabric dyed with indigo that has not yet been washed. The jeans are quite rigid, rough, tight and are of a pure dark blue color. The cool thing about raw denim is that it will develop a natural fade based on how you wear your jeans, eventually allowing the jeans to seem aged but avoiding the goofiness of faded or distressed jeans.
Some denim enthusiasts will not wash their raw denim for up to a year so that none of the indigo dye is lost and it fades naturally. I have one pair of raw denim that I wore this way for about eight months. I hung it up after each time I wore it so that it would air out. The result was an exceptionally soft, naturally faded, but still very sturdy, pair of jeans.
Raw denim selvage jeans can be expensive. If you have the money, perhaps the finest pair of jeans on the market is A.P.C.’s New Standard. A.P.C. is a French retailer with a boutique in the SoHo neighborhood of Manhattan. With a $175 price tag, they are a lot more money than most guys want to spend on a pair of jeans. This is understandable. Despite the price, the jeans are quite exceptional.
Your next best bet for selvage is the Japanese retailer Uniqlo. Currently, Uniqlo has only one store in the United States, located in SoHo in New York City. While they are as ubiquitous as the Gap or H&M in Japan, they are spreading slowly across the rest of the world. Uniqlo’s selvage, typically priced at $80, is outstanding. If you are in New York, I highly recommend trying on a pair.
If you don’t live in New York, but still want a pair of selvage jeans for under $100, Gap has a very well reviewed offering. The Gentleman has not yet had a chance to try them for himself, but they are certainly worth a look for $90.
With all jeans, but especially with raw selvage, The Gentleman highly recommends trying them on in person. Denim is cut so particularly that, for example, a pair of 33x30s differs widely in how it actually fits from company to company. Good deals can be found online, but try them on first in the store.
Next week, The Gentleman will feature a new style icon, and this time it’s a friend from his law school…
The Gentleman was on the East Coast this week, visiting friends in NYC. It was great to catch up with a lot of people that I haven’t seen in nearly a year. It was also a real treat to meet Cubicle Chic founder, Lindsay, and have all four bloggers in the same place at the same time, even if only for a few minutes.
As I mentioned in my last post, The Gentleman is on the hunt for a new pair of jeans. Last week, I distinguished between the higher-end denim for wearing out in the evening and “kick around jeans” that are better for daily wear. One of my goals while in NYC was to find the latter. Once I get back to New Orleans, I want to spend a lot more time discussing how cut, wash, and denim weave each affect the final product of a pair of jeans.
For now, though, here’s the new pair of jeans that I’ll be wearing: Levi’s 514. I had initially thought that Levi’s classic 501 of 505 jeans would be what I was looking for; however, both cuts were far too relaxed. For daily wear, I don’t want a skinny jean, but I do want a pair that gives some shape and form to the leg. I found the 501 to be extremely baggy. The 505 was closer to what I was looking for, but still a bit shapeless. Levi’s 514 slim straight cut was just what I was looking for. I definitely recommend looking into this pair for a gentleman who wants a slim fitting jean that avoids the trendy excess of a skinny jean. It’s definitely comfortable enough for active wear and also creates a clean silhouette, giving definition to the leg. At just under $60, they are a few dollars more expensive than Levi’s more well known cuts, but still very affordable.
Next week, The Gentleman will be explaining raw denim and selvedge mean….
Is there anything more classically American than a good pair of jeans? The Gentleman thinks not. And yet, buying jeans is one of the most difficult clothing purchases that a man can make. Next to buying a suit, there is probably no other article of clothing that comes in a more bewildering array of cuts, styles, and colors. Because of the number of options available, jeans are an area of clothing where a gentleman can easily go astray.
I think that the first mistake many gentlemen make is thinking that they can get by with just one pair of jeans. In reality, every man needs two pairs of jeans. One pair should be “premium” denim. It should be darker and slimmer cut. This is the pair of jeans that is worn out at night to bars or concerts. The other pair of jeans is the kick around pair. It can be a bit lighter in color, preferably by being old and naturally faded by age. It can also be a bit looser since it is meant for comfort.
A man runs into trouble when he confuses the two and wears the old kick around pair of jeans to the bar or when he wears the dressy premium jeans for a hike or a trip to the beach.
The Gentleman owns two pairs of jeans, one dressy and one casual. It’s actually the casual pair of jeans that I want to upgrade right now. Currently, for day-to-day wear, I have an old pair of Abercrombie jeans. They are “boot cut” (slimmer through the leg and slightly wider at the leg opening) and really aren’t comfortable enough for a wide variety of daily activities. I’m looking for a something a bit looser, though by no means baggy.
The most obvious place to start is Levi’s. The company invented and popularized the blue jean in America and still makes some of the highest quality product at affordable prices. In particular, I think that either the classic Original 501 or the 505 Straight Fit is probably what I’m looking for.
Levi 501
Levi 505
Next week, I’m excited to be flying to New York City. It will be my first trip back in a year. I’ll be doing a lot of shopping, especially for jeans, and photographing my purchases and some new outfits. I’m also looking forward to hanging out with Meredith, Lindsay, and John (aka Stolen Says) from Cubicle Chic! Stay tuned!
The Gentleman loves New Year’s resolutions. Even if only some are kept, the start of a new year still give us an opportunity to reflect on our lives and to implement changes that can positively impact ourselves and everyone around us.
I’ve been very happy with The Gentleman columns I wrote during 2010. I believe that I’ve been able to touch on a wide variety of men’s dressing topics, providing tips and pitfalls to avoid while at the same time pointing out where a gentleman can purchase high quality clothing at decent prices. However, there are a few things that I am looking to change. The biggest change that is coming to Cubicle Chic’s The Gentleman column is clothing diversity.
A couple of days ago, I was chatting with a new law school classmate, Rob. I’m a big fan of the way Rob dresses. He’s a tall, powerfully built guy with a fondness for dark denim, plaid, vests, and leather boots. He described his style as “blue collar chic,” and he prefers clothing that one can wear over and over again, “beat the hell out of” and still look good in. The Gentleman admired the sentiment.
In no way do I want to completely lift Rob’s style, but I did note that in the ten months that I’ve been writing this column, I have not once discussed denim. Boots have also never been featured. This led me to think about all the different sartorial directions I can take while still maintaining a focus on classic men’s styling. After all, there’s nothing more classic Americana than jeans and boots.
Don’t be alarmed! The Gentleman has no plans to abandon bowties and oxfords, but expect to see outfits and tips infused with more urban styling. Also, expect to see less J.Crew and Brooks Brothers and more of a variety of other retailers at different price points.
Check out today’s outfit to give you an idea of what The Gentleman is going for in 2011.
The Gentleman’s Look:
Jeans: Japanese Raw Denim Selvedge from Uniqlo, 1.5 years old, $80
Cardigan: The Original Penguin, $50
Shoes: Sperry Top-Sider Chukka Boots, $125
New Glasses: Ray Bans, price varies
Next week, The Gentleman breaks in a new pair of jeans…
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